Start by fitting the section of guttering with the outlet since this will be joined to the downpipe which must be positioned directly over the ground-level drain. It may be a stop-end outlet at the end of a run of gutter or a running outlet in the middle of the gutter.
1 Fit a gutter bracket near the top of the fascia board at one end of the run of guttering (the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one). Tie a builder's line or piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2 To position the gutter outlet accurately, hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain. Mark the position on the fascia with a pencil. Fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles, following the manufacturer's advice about the size and number of screws.
3 Stretch the string or builder's line from the bracket along the fascia board and tie it to the outlet. Using a spirit level, check that the string slopes towards the outlet: a slight fall (10mm every 6m of gutter), though not essential, will encourage water to drain efficiently.
4 Mark the position of the other brackets, spacing them no more than 1m apart and no more than 150mm from any joint or fitting. If the outlet is in the middle of the gutter, repeat the process with a bracket at the other end of the guttering run so that it too slopes towards the outlet.
5 Fit the rest of the brackets.
6 Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip the gutter into position on the brackets. The easiest way to do this is to tilt the gutter to fit under the back clip and then straighten it under the front clip. Line up the gutter end with the insertion depth mark on the bracket.
7 Fit a union piece at the other end of the first length and screw it into the fascia, then fit the next length of gutter into it. Continue joining lengths. Cut the last section to fit using a hacksaw and fit a stop-end. Make sure all joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings.
Here, the downpipe is fitted directly into the outlet. If your eaves overhang, however, you will need to bridge the distance between the gutter and the house wall with two downpipe fittings called offset bends, with an off-cut of downpipe fitted between them
1 Using a spirit level or plumb line, mark a vertical line on the wall from the outlet to the drain
2 Hold a downpipe clip centrally over the line and mark its fixing holes on the wall with a pencil. Repeat down the wall, spacing pipe clips and socket clips (see Steps 4 and 6) no more than 1.8m apart.
3 Drill the fixing holes with the size of drill bit recommended by the guttering manufacturer. Insert wallplugs into the holes. Use an RCD (residual current device) if drilling outdoors.
4 Fit the first length of downpipe with its socket uppermost. Leave a 10mm gap between the end of the outlet and the bottom of the socket to allow for expansion in hot weather. Fix a socket clip over the join and screw it into the wallplugs.
5 Fit the clips to the pipe and screw them into the wallplugs. Continue fitting the pipe until you reach the bottom of the wall.
6 Fit the shoe to the bottom of the pipe so that it directs water into the drain. Secure the join with a socket clip.
Fed up of clearing trapped leaves and debris from your gutter in the chill of the autumn? By using an easy-fit gutter guard, this will prevent the entry of unnecessary leaves and debris, enabling a non-restrictive flow of rainwater. There is no need to dismantle your downpipe system to clear blockages; guards are also available to prevent leaves and debris from entering the system.
The diverter allows rainwater to flow down the down pipe directly in to a water butt. The product prevents excess overflow in to the water butt as it is designed so that if the water butt is full, the water will bypass the diverter and flow down the downpipe. Please check your local store for further information.
For a house to remain in a good condition it must be weatherproof. Rain that falls on the roof or is blown against the external walls must drain away efficiently, or it will penetrate the structure of the house and cause damp problems - or even leaks. To keep your home dry and avoid costly repairs, tired guttering and downpipes require maintenance and possible replacement.
If the replacement of guttering is due to structural damp issues, the first step is to inspect for blockages of leaves and other debris. The over-spill of rainwater could simply be this and the requirement of a full system replacement is not necessary. Please check your local store for availability of guttering and downpipe guards to help prevent blockages and to maintain optimum performance of your rainwater system. Check the condition of fascia and soffit boards for rotten and damp areas, remove and replace if necessary.
Gutters are available in different colours, shapes or profiles, both plain and decorative:
Standard 112mm Half Round gutters are used with a 68mm circular downpipe for houses and large detached garages.
Square line 114mm x 60mm guttering with 65mm square downpipe, has an attractive straight back, front and base, and a flow capacity in excess of Half Round.
If you live in a larger house with a large roof area, or in an area of high rainfall, you may need a Deep gutter with a greater or higher capacity, such as 115mmx75mm semi-elliptical profile.
When fitting guttering on a shed, greenhouse or small detached garage, use the smaller Mini 75mm half-round gutters with 50mm circular downpipe.
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