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How to build a wooden shed

A wooden garden shed is straightforward to assemble and once erected can provide much-needed storage, a home for hobbying or a quiet spot to sit and enjoy your garden. Follow our simple instructions and we’ll show you how to build a wooden shed so that it lasts for years.

We’re using a shed with:

  • an apex roof
  • a single door
  • fixed windows

But this technique can easily be adapted for more elaborate designs with extra windows and double doors. Before shopping for your shed, check out our buying guide to explore the full range of sheds available and find the right one for you.

We recommend undertaking any shed project with help and assistance from either a couple of helpers, or one helper and a timber prop.

Always wear protective safety gear when necessary.

Materials

  • Wooden shed - check that roofing felt and all the fixings, including felt nails, are included otherwise these will have to be bought separately
  • Twist and countersink drill bits - drill bit sizes may vary
  • 2.4m x 3m timber prop - to help hold the sides of the shed up while they’re fastened, if required
  • Hasp and staple - if required
  • Padlock - if required

Tools

Safety kit

Assembly instructions will vary from shed to shed, so always follow any manufacturer’s instructions. For example, some sheds use screws that pull the wood close together, while others use nails to secure certain pieces (as per our photography). Always use whatever is supplied or recommended.

Two people lining up a shed side panel against a back panel which has already been installed.Two people lining up a shed side panel against a back panel which has already been installed.Two people lining up a shed side panel against a back panel which has already been installed.Two people lining up a shed side panel against a back panel which has already been installed.

1. Fit the first panels

Remove any travel blocks. These are pieces of timber framing placed under the shed's panels to prevent damage during transit.

Centre the shed floor on top of your chosen base, then measure and mark in pencil the centre point of each edge. Repeat on the bottom batten of each side panel.

Starting with the shed’s back panel, lift it into place, and use a long timber prop or a helper to hold it upright. Lift a side panel onto the shed floor. Choose one without a door, as the one with the door should be the final panel you raise.

Screw the back and side panel together along the framing battens where they meet. Drill pilot holes and then fit three countersunk screws at the top, middle and bottom.

Person using a drill to secure a shed side panel to the back panel, whilst someone else holds the two panels in place.Person using a drill to secure a shed side panel to the back panel, whilst someone else holds the two panels in place.Person using a drill to secure a shed side panel to the back panel, whilst someone else holds the two panels in place.Person using a drill to secure a shed side panel to the back panel, whilst someone else holds the two panels in place.

2. Fit the other panels

Fit the other side panel in the same way.

Next, fit the final panel housing the door. Don’t try to fix your shed frame to the floor just yet - make sure the panels are square, aligned and fitted together first (unless your instructions state otherwise).

Using a drill to secure an L bracket which is joining the shed back panel to the roof support beam.Using a drill to secure an L bracket which is joining the shed back panel to the roof support beam.Using a drill to secure an L bracket which is joining the shed back panel to the roof support beam.Using a drill to secure an L bracket which is joining the shed back panel to the roof support beam.

3. Fit the roof support beam

Fit the roof support beam across the top of the shed, slotting it into the pre-cut grooves at the top of the two pointed ends on an apex shed (known as the gable ends). Check that the shed is sitting firmly on its base and that the door opens easily (if it's already fixed in place within the panel).

Fix the beam to each gable end through an L-shaped metal bracket (included with the shed kit) using the screws provided.

Two people stood on step ladders positioning a shed roof panel onto the top of a shed.Two people stood on step ladders positioning a shed roof panel onto the top of a shed.Two people stood on step ladders positioning a shed roof panel onto the top of a shed.Two people stood on step ladders positioning a shed roof panel onto the top of a shed.

4. Fit the roof panels

Lay the roof panels on the ground, one at a time, with the eave sections (wooden strips) positioned underneath, flush with the bottom edge of the panel. Measure and mark evenly spaced fixing positions as recommended in the instructions. Drill pilot holes and then hammer in the nails, or use the screws provided, to attach the eave sections to the roof panels.

Lift the roof panels into position, one at a time, ensuring everything is level and aligned. Secure the roof panels to the shed and along the inner support beam using the fixings provided. A work platform will come in useful when fitting the roof. Check again that the shed is square on the shed floor and base before finally screwing (or nailing) the sides and gable ends to the floor.

5. Felt the roof

Once you've constructed your shed, you can then add the roof felt. Even if your shed kit comes with a roll of roof felt, you'll probably still need to cut it to size with a utility knife and a straight edge (using either a rule or piece of timber). Always make sure the roof boards are completely dry before laying the felt. Our wooden sheds are usually supplied with the roof felt tacks and specific fitting instructions as part of the kit.

For help felting your shed roof, take a look at our guide. 

Shed windows are usually made of perspex or styrene, both of which slide easily into the window frame. The beading and windows can vary from shed to shed and most of the ironmongery or hinges for opening windows simply screw into place once the window is slotted in or assembled.

Person lining up a metal windowsill with a shed window opening.Person lining up a metal windowsill with a shed window opening.Person lining up a metal windowsill with a shed window opening.Person lining up a metal windowsill with a shed window opening.

1. Fit the windowsills

For a fixed (also known as non-opening) window, stand outside the shed and slot the metal windowsill into position along the bottom of the window frame.

Person using a hammer to secure wood window cloaks to the window opening of a shed.Person using a hammer to secure wood window cloaks to the window opening of a shed.Person using a hammer to secure wood window cloaks to the window opening of a shed.Person using a hammer to secure wood window cloaks to the window opening of a shed.

2. Fit the window cloaks

Still outside, nail or screw in the window cloaks (short strips of wood), using the supplied fixings - this secures the sills.

Person using a hammer to secure the window beading to the edge of a shed window inside the shed.Person using a hammer to secure the window beading to the edge of a shed window inside the shed.Person using a hammer to secure the window beading to the edge of a shed window inside the shed.Person using a hammer to secure the window beading to the edge of a shed window inside the shed.

3. Fit the window glazing

Move inside the shed to slide the window glazing into place, resting it on the sill. The beading is secured with the screws or nails provided. Start with the screws or nails first, then position the beading over the window glazing at the top and sides of the frame before screwing or hammering them home.

Finally remove the protective film from the glazing.

Person using a drill to secure a sliding bolt lock to the outside of a shed.Person using a drill to secure a sliding bolt lock to the outside of a shed.Person using a drill to secure a sliding bolt lock to the outside of a shed.Person using a drill to secure a sliding bolt lock to the outside of a shed.

4. Fit the door

Some doors are provided pre-assembled and fitted within the panel, but some can arrive separately and will need to be aligned and fitted using the hinges provided.

Once the door is in place, drill pilot holes and screw in any sliding bolts or padlocks provided (or purchased separately) for additional security. We recommend securing the door with two sturdy padlocks on hasps and staples (this is a metal fastener with a hinged slotted part that fits over a metal loop) fixed through both door and frame where possible.

For extra security, add a battery operated shed alarm inside the shed. The audible alarm will help deter intruders that break in.