How to lay vinyl floor tiles

If the dimensions of your room aren't regular, you'll need to snap your chalk lines from a different place. Centre the first line on a strong focal point such as a fireplace or patio doors. The room will still be divided into sections, but these will be different from each another.

First, measure one wall, work out the mid-point and mark this on the floor. Then do the same with the opposite wall. Ask someone to help you stretch a chalk line between the two marks and snap a line across the floor. Work out and mark the mid-point of this line. Next, tie about 1m of string to a pencil, and ask your helper to hold the end of the string firmly on the mid-point of the line, pull it tight and draw an arc on the line either side.

Now get your helper to hold the end of the string on the point where one arc meets the line. With the string pulled tight, draw arcs at an angle of roughly 45 degrees either side of the centre line. When you do this from the other side, the arcs should overlap.

Stretch a chalk line between these overlapping arcs and snap a line across the floor. You now have two lines intersecting at a perfect right-angle in the centre of the room.

Start at the centre line and dry-lay a row of tiles from the line to one of the walls.

When you reach the wall, check to see if you're left with a narrow gap. Try to avoid this, as a thin strip of tile at the skirting won't look great - and may not stick too well, either.

To avoid such a narrow gap, move the starting line back the width of half a tile. Next, repeat the dry-laying from the start line in the opposite direction and then towards the other two walls. Adjust the start line as needed until there's a reasonable gap of about half a tile all-round the room.

Peel the backing paper off the first tile and press its edge against the start line. Lower the rest of the tile onto the floor and press it down.

Lay the next tile on the other side of the chalk line and fit it against the first tile. Make a square with two more tiles, and then lay tiles around the square to form a pyramid shape. Continue positioning the tiles until you've covered half the room (except for the gaps at the skirting) then tile the other half. Position all the whole tiles before filling in the gaps at the edges and tackling the areas that have fittings.

To cut the tiles for the gaps at the skirting, place the tile to be cut exactly on top of the last full tile. Put another tile on top, with its edge touching the wall. Then use a chinagraph pencil to mark along the edge of the top tile on the face of the tile below.

Put the marked tile on an old piece of board. Place a straightedge along the marked line and cut part-way through the tile with a craft knife.

Break the tile by bending it at the cut line until it snaps.

With the backing paper still on, check that the cut tile will fit into the gap without being forced. Then remove the backing paper and stick it in place. Repeat the marking and cutting process all the way around the edge of the floor.

To make your template, cut a piece of thin card or paper the size of one of the tiles. Then cut slits on the side where the pedestal will fit. Next, position the template against the pedestal with the flaps fringing it. Press the flaps against the pedestal with a blunt knife. Tape the paper to the floor, and draw a pencil line where the pedestal and the floor meet.

Remove the template and cut away the flaps, leaving the pencil guideline.

Place the template on a tile. If the tiles have a directional pattern, make sure the tile you're going to cut is the right way round. Draw the guideline on the tile and then cut it with a craft knife. Finally, peel off the backing paper and fit your tile.

Start by holding the tile against the pipe, and draw a line on each side of the tile to mark its width.

Move the tile so the marked edge touches the wall. Mark on the tile the distance to the front of the pipe.

Rest the tile on a block of wood. Then position the sharpened off-cut of copper pipe where the lines meet. Hit the other end of the pipe with a hammer to punch a neat hole through the tile.

Cut a straight slit between the hole and the edge of the tile. Dry-lay to check the fit, then stick the tile firmly in place.

Take care when using adhesives for these tiles - the solvent- and spirit-based versions are highly flammable. As their fumes soak into clothing, keep away from any fire and hang your clothes outdoors when you've finished. If there's a pilot light in the room, turn it off while you lay the floor. Open all the windows, too. Some manufacturers also recommend wearing gloves when applying floor-tile adhesive, so make sure you check the guidelines on the tin.

Try combining different coloured tiles. You could choose any kind of pattern, from a simple chessboard of dark and light to more dramatic combinations of two or more colours. But whatever you decide on, make sure you draw a scale plan of the design before starting to lay your patterned tile floor.

If you're laying the tiles on a porous surface like concrete you'll need to use a primer with a paintbrush, which will seal it.

Working from the centre line; spread the tile adhesive evenly over the floor with a notched spreader. Check with the manufacturer's instructions, but for most adhesives you should cover an area big enough for about 15 minutes' work.

Carefully lay the tiles over the adhesive while it's still wet. Press the tiles into the adhesive, making sure that every part of each tile is in contact with the sub-floor. Check the tiles are level and fit them tightly up against each other.

Roll a small roller over the tiles. Try to focus on the edges and corners to make sure they're well stuck down.

If any adhesive comes through the joins, wipe it from the surface of the tiles straight away with a damp cloth or sponge. You can remove any adhesive that's started to set with white spirit. Measure up the edging tiles, cut them to size and stick them in place.